Makuzi is one of those hidden gems in Africa
that you find by chance. Last time we were in Malawi we went from beach camp to
beach camp to try and find the best spot and settled on this one and strangely
enough, when Lisa was looking for somewhere to book for them to stay she chose
the same one. It is just below Chintheche where Wilderness Safari has a camp
but Makuzi is tucked into a little bay with rocks, white beach sand and the
most beautiful huge shady trees to camp under. The lodge itself is a little
rustic but very charming and Laura and Brett, the owners, are such interesting
people and good hosts.
Laura's mother bought the place about 18 years
ago and started to develop it into a lodge but was tragically killed in a Hang gliding
accident when she was only 45 years old. Laura then took over the place and she
and her husband Brett and their two boys have run it since then.
The water in Lake
Malawi is very clean, clear and you would honestly think you were on the ocean
with sand, waves and sea water but this is so much nicer because it is fresh
water and there are no sharks. There is however the occasional crocodile and so
I was ever watchful and a bit nervous about swimming out too deep. The last
visit that they had from a croc was over 8 years ago; it had a go at some
swimmer who had managed to get away. They had later shot the bastard ... 11
foot long....and not seen another since then.
Anyway it was quite
safe in the shallow water as it is so clear you could see one coming from far
away. There are also rumors that there is Bilharzia in Lake Malawi but this
resort is about mid-way up the lake and there is no sign of it there.
Their two sons ages twelve and fourteen are home
schooled and spend a good part of the day in the water, either surfing or
playing on tubes or boating into the deeper water. They are both skilled spear
fishermen and took Travis with them to a nearby rocky island where they do
their spear fishing. He of course was absolutely in his element and barely came
out of the water for the four days that we were there.
The lake is really quite deceptive as it appears
to be so calm and tranquil but apparently the storms can get quite violent and
they do appear out of nowhere. There were 140 fishermen that drowned a little
while ago so it is something that really needs to be respected and not taken
for granted.
The rest of us swam; sun bathed, read our books
and went for long walks up the mountain. There were some unusual birds like the
magnificent Purple Crested Turaco and tons of little birds like Manikins and
Wattle eyes which we enjoyed identifying.
Kim spent some time going around the property
with Laura looking at all the plants she had cultivated; she had some unusual
local herbs that he was interested in. She was telling us about an active
volcano in Mozambique that her mother had been trying to find... The reason for
having taken up hang gliding and when her mom was killed she had decided to
complete this mission for her and went with three friends into the mine
infested area in Mozambique to find this volcano. There she found a village
where there was a community of Nuns who have healing powers in their hands...
Thank goodness we persuaded Ernest that we shouldn't go and find them...
Forever the adventurer.
For me it was a very special time as I got to
spend some time with Cammie who has been away from home skiing quite a lot
lately. We have always been so close and we were able to spend time chatting
and catching up on all the latest exciting things that had happened to her over
the last few months. Kodi of course kept all the "big people"
entertained and had them all going on his “expeditions" finding crystals on the beach. Poor Steve has to
push him up and down in the waves on a big tube that he had managed to borrow
from the boys.
Our original plan was to go up to Livingstonia
and then on to Nyaka plateaux but we decided just to rather chill at Makuzi and
rather not do too much driving with the kids. It was their first "African
experience" and we didn't want to overwhelm them with too much traveling.
The last day at the lake was kind of marred by
the arrival of the Lake flies. These horrible little creatures hatch from the
larvae that are laid in the lake and in actual fact it was the wrong time of
the year to see them. Well we seemed to have attracted a lot of stuff that was “the wrong time of the year" and we
started seeing what appeared to be black clouds over the water. Brett, our host
said "Oh dear they are on their
way" he warned us that by the
evening we would be covered in these pesky little flies. You can't complain too
much as they are the life blood of the lake and keep the fishes fed but they do
get into everything and I would much rather have not seen them... Just read
about them - would have been good enough. The locals apparently catch them,
compress them into a huge ball, cook them and eat them like they are a real
delicacy. Yuck!!
Anyway that night was quite a sight, they came
in from the lake and swarmed around the lights in a huge cloud so thick that it
almost blocked off the lights completely. They got into our food, up our noses
and into our eyes and when you got into the tent you couldn't put on a light
inside as they are so tiny they just went straight through the netting. Thank
goodness we were leaving the next day as I wouldn't have wanted a repeat of
trying to cook without them flying into the food.
Till next time!
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