Monday 15 September 2014

Day 47: Lushutu en Route Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

So our route down to Dar Es Salaam began today! It was not too far and we had two days to get there so there was no need for us to leave too early.

We had breakfast planned with some friends so we had a long leisurely breakfast and looked at a whole lot of semi-precious stones that one of the guys had as part of his collection. Tanzania is full of these stones; tanzanite, green garnets, amethyst, and lots of others that I have forgotten the names of. He even had a pink tanzanite which I didn't know existed but was simply the most beautiful stone. All the girls had a wonderful time admiring these gorgeous pieces of adornment; girls are always such suckers for these things and can't resist them. So we eventually had to tear ourselves away as we were in danger of going nowhere at that rate and we did have about 200 Kms to go.

The road out of Moshi was fantastic, we couldn't believe our luck, this time we had arrived at the end of the upgrade and the road was wide, newly tarred and there were only a few patches where we had to go off onto the dirt and then back up again. In fact we made such good progress that we were driving past the turn off to Lushutu at 3 o'clock with only 60 Kms to go before our goal town of Serenga where we planned to spend the night. It would have been too early so on the spur of the moment we changed our plans and decided to take a slight detour and spend the night at Lushutu instead of Serenga.

Lushutu was the old capital of Tanganyika when the country was under German rule before and during the First World War. It is a town that was established high up in the mountains, away from any Malaria and the climate was obviously more like that of Europe. It has a high rainfall, is a very cool place and is quite unique in its position and climatic conditions and soils. So it was a case of a quick U turn and off we went up the mountain

Wow, it is a really scary experience for the passengers of any car to go up that pass....plus the driver of course, but at least the driver has the steering wheel to hang onto which is not the case for the passengers. And driving with Ernest is a challenge at the best of times as he doesn't really slow down much for anyone especially at the exclamations of his wife!

 

 
The road winds back and forth with at least thirty blind corners and an unprotected drop on the side of 1000 foot or more which, believe me, looks a lot more from hight vantage point of The Queen window. Going up you have the drop on the passengers side, just so you understand why my palms started perspiring and my feet almost went through the floorboards from breaking. The busses come down that hill like they are on a highway and it is surprising that you don't see more wrecks at the bottom of the hill, not that you could see the bottom, it is just too far down. Anyway to stop my dramatization, it is the most spectacular pass I have ever been on and you just climb and climb and climb to the top. You go up 1100 meters in 13 kilometers. It was a German built road built way back when and is really in very good order despite the obvious wear and tear, at a perfect gradient and the views are quite spectacular. We did stop and try and take photos but they just don't show how steep it is or how wonderful the views are.
It took us over an hour to get to the top but it is really worth the effort. When you think you have reached the top you come around the corner and there is suddenly just this mass of people, all selling their goods, fruit, potatoes onions, tomatoes and little shops selling everything else that you can think of...


 

 What a place! At this point you think you have reached the top but oh no there was still at least another 5 or so Kms till reaching the camp site.


 
 
We had an interesting and unusual experience at this point which I will mention... were going merrily along when suddenly we got hit by a stone thrown by one of the little buggers standing by the side of the road. Ernest will never tolerate that so he stopped the Queen, got everyone to back up and he was out the car in a flash chasing the little buggers who had thrown the stone. It was a circus and reminded me of the buffaloes in Amboseli who had taken fright at The Queen and stampeded away with an elephant in toe. So there was Ernest, shouting away and about 10 little boys and their mother all running hell for leather away from us. I just never got my camera out in time but it would have been a great picture. I am sure it will be a long time before they even think of throwing another stone at a passing car.

We had previously stayed at a campsite called the Lawns and we knew it was the only place where The Queen would fit so off we went to find the place. Unfortunately, he had built a few extra rooms etc and so we weren't able to get The Queen up onto the lawns as it was too steep and Ernest was too scared to try and take The Queen up such a steep incline. So we had to park in their parking lot and camp right there. Ernest and Steve managed to position The Queen right next to a little shelter that they had built and we fitted snugly into place and had a great evening sitting under the shelter around a fire with our coats on as it is pretty cold up in those mountains.

 
                                Campsite at Lushutu
 
The worst part of Lushutu is that I am sure it is the noisiest place on planet earth. Plus it was Friday night so there was a party going on that lasted till the early hours of the morning. Luckily for Ernest and I, our tent had somehow leaked when we were parked in the rain at Moshi and we were forced to sleep inside The Queen. Poor old Kim, Andrea and Steve looked pretty blurry eyed the next morning and we hadn't heard a thing... Good old wet tent comes in handy sometimes.

Look forward to reading your comments! Signing off!

   

1 comment:

  1. Eh, couldn't the men's arms be twisted into buying you ladies a semi-precious stone each...?!
    Tut tut....

    ReplyDelete