Monday, 25 August 2014

Day 35: Makalia Falls, Nakuru National Park, Naivasha, Great Rift Valley, Kenya

I was in such a hurry to get off yesterday's blog that I forgot to describe our trip from Nairobi to Naivasha. Ernest had got a triple BB award from the team in Nairobi! Actually, we gave it a new name; it is called the BB Unmentionable Award and that is a special award for Ernest as none of us can mention them! The first one was that he nearly ran over Steve who was sitting under the truck fixing something when Ernest decided he needed to fill the Queen with water and started it up to move it to a better position.... Strike one. Then we discovered that he had brought two beautiful new gas bottles with us all the way from SA but hadn't put any gas in them.... Strike two. Then Steve had left him to fill up the Queen with water as we were headed now there is NO water and we needed to be full. He got sort of half way on the last tank and got bored so took the pipe out and off we went.... Strike three.

He got ragged for these transgressions so I think he was just going to show us all up by proving what a racing driver he was and oh boy he showed us on the road just what the truck could do when pitched against all the other cars.... Hell it was a nightmare! The road, even though we took the highway, was fairly good but very narrow and horribly inadequate for the amount of traffic that it carries. Again there are trucks, busses, cars, motorbikes and hulks of metal on wheels that somehow move forward, sideways and bounce up and down. So my Darling husband has a thing about teaching a lesson to anyone who drives badly or cuts him off or passes on a blind rise or a solid white line. Oh my gosh there are some guys out there who will never make the same mistake again but, when he started to chase the bus that passed us with NO room, nearly drove us off the road and was totally kamikaze, then I started yelling that I was going to get out of the truck and never get back in again. The red mist cleared if only for a moment and we slowed down to a steady pace again. Seriously the roads are very inadequate for the amount of traffic that they carry and to be sure, I am very pleased that Ernest is the driver as although I moan about his speed, he is the best driver I know.  I do go on a bit about the traffic but it was honestly nose to tail all the way from Nairobi to Nakuru so you really had to just settle down and go at the average speed of the other cars or have a nervous breakdown in the process.

You really need to be a fly on the wall when driving through any town and I try and tell Ernest where to go. I put the destination into the GPS and then I say... Okay go left here. Ernest says are you sure" I say yes. He says" I am sure it is the next one". By that time he has missed the turn so I say take the next one... He says Gaye make up your mind" then I say" well you decide then" to

which he says why can't you work the bloody GPS oh my gosh I am going to record it sometime and post that. In the end he radios Ken and only when Ken says it is the right way will he turn!! I give up! MEN.

Nakuru National Reserve is one of Kenya's premier reserves together with the Mara and Amboseli and when you get there you do understand why, it is absolutely beautiful and well worth visiting. It is the complete opposite of the Masai Mara in that it is very thickly forested with these huge yellow Acacia trees plus very lush green undergrowth so different to the vast open plains of the Mara. In the middle of the park is a huge lake. It is actually situated inside a volcano basin and you can see the huge cliffs on the outer perimeter of the park.

We arrived at about three, thinking we had plenty of time to get into the park, have a decent game drive and then camp for the night. Well, we should have known better and figured that Africa is unpredictable when it comes to predicting time. So we arrived at the gate which is now in a completely different place to where it was before. We went to the office to pay our entry fee and get a camp site only to find a chaotic rush of people all trying to pay and get into the park. There were tourists, school kids and literally busloads of people all fighting to get into the queue and get into the park. Kim and I braved the office. As always, in these situations there are a whole lot of people that don't believe in waiting their turn so it was a case of survival of the fittest and boy you just had to be bloody minded and stand on the toes of the guy who was trying to jump the queue. Kim had a guy behind him who kept breathing down his neck, which could have competed with a hyena as to who smelt the worst so our fight to get out was even more urgent. So after about an hour we managed to pay, get a campsite allocation and get through the gate. They gave us a site at the furthest end of the park and off we set, in the pouring rain to get there and get settled in before night fall.

The drive through the park was so picturesque with these huge trees, lush bush, the cliffs on one side and the lake on the other. The part that totally surprised us was the level of the water. It had risen by at least 5 meters since we last visited the park and the reason why the entrance to the park had changed is because all of the old offices and restaurants had gone under water. This has apparently happened to all the lakes along the Great Rift Valley and so many of the facilities around the edges of the lakes have had to be abandoned and rebuilt on higher ground. We had thought that obviously they had experienced an abnormally high rainfall over the last two years but this is apparently not true. It has been as a result of some shift in the tectonic plates in the Rift Valley and all the water tables had risen. 

So much of the waters edge where we had driven last time was now underwater and the whole lake was lined with dead trees that had most probably died from being under water.

Anyway we certainly saw a tremendous amount of game. There is an abundance of Buffalo, waterbuck, Impala and we even saw a Rhino.... That was a surprise. We went through a very impressive Euphorbia forest, apparently one of the biggest in the world which was a first for all of us. There are Lion and Leopard in this reserve but we didn't see any as it was late and we were in a hurry to get to our camp.

The camp site was at a place called Makalia falls and it was at the furthest point in the park from the entrance so we had to keep up a good pace as it was a good 30 Kms to go and we only had two hours before sunset. When we reached the falls there was a little spill way/ bridge that we had to cross in order to get to the campsite with a sign that said. do not cross at any time even if there is no flooding" oh hell what does that mean... Go across to the camp site or stay put??? It was a very narrow little slipway but as we are so used to balancing the truck with its wheels right on the edge of the bridge we decided to give it a go. No problem!  Once across the bridge we found the most beautiful campsite, green lawn, wonderful trees, and great ablutions all be it without water and a few buffalo grazing nearby. We set up camp, sent Steve off to find the valve for the water for the ablutions, cooked dinner and had the most glorious evening under the stars. We all voted this one as the best camp site of the trip and we will be hard pressed to find anything better.

During the night Steve and Andrea had a few buffs as close as 5 or 6 meters from their tents... Rather them than me but Steve was not nervous at all and quite enjoyed having them so close.

Signing off!

 

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