Finally Home
When I read back at some of my writings, I think
I may have given the impression that it was too rough but I think this was
probably the best trip we have done. We got to Lake Turkana this time which was
a huge mile stone for us. We had a great team and we worked together so well,
we had lots of fun and I think the fact that Ernest and I had done it before
helped to build the confidence of the other guys as to where we were going and
what we were going to see.
There has been a tremendous deterioration in the
roads and the infrastructure in the countries where we travelled but then to be
fair, a lot of the time it was due to the fact that they were being rebuilt and
in a few years’ time when those
roads are finished, the whole experience in those countries will be completely
different.
We visited 14 different game reserves, went
through 10 different border posts and drove for 15,000 kilometers and did it
all in 80 days. Wow, that was quite a trip!
We sat together the last night and everyone
spoke about what their highlights for the trip were and we spoke about what fun
the whole experience had been and how much we had gained and learnt. One of my
personal difficulties on the trip was a stupid thing like making my bed when I
am in it, which is what I had to do every night. You know making your bed is
one thing but try making it when you are in it is quite another and then to
make it worse I had to sometimes make it with
Ernest sitting in it at the same time. He is too impatient to sit
outside and wait till I am done so I have to make him sit first in one corner
of the tent, then the other while I straighten the sheets etc.
Oh well, I guess it was not like boarding school
where someone inspected if the sheets were tucked in properly.
Then of course there is the washing…when you put those clothes in the bucket
and put in the soap and water, you cannot believe the color of the water... It
goes this sort of brown color and just never seems to rinse clean.
Kim said that the one amazing thing for him was
when we stayed at the hotel in Moshi, he had two showers, about an hour apart
and after the second shower the new white towel he used still turned a darker
shade of brown.... And he was in an air-conditioned car, not like Ernest and I
sitting in our dust bowl of a hippo!
We all agreed that the worst thing that you have
to contend with are those dam tsetse flies, they have the most terrible sting,
they are so persistent and you just don't know they are sitting on you till it
is too late. We all got so badly bitten by the dam things and poor Rouvierre
had the worst reaction to them, her
hands and legs swelled up and made her look like a cabbage patch doll - not for
too long though as she definitely won the prize for the smartest dressed and
best looking of the lot of us. We all looked scruffy and bedraggled and
Rouvierre came out looking like she had stepped out of a vogue magazine- sis on
her.
The mozzies are also a total pest and in actual
fact probably the most dangerous thing that you come across in Africa. We did
get bitten but not too badly and I do think we were also most of the time not
in peek malaria time so that was good planning on Ernest's part. However as
Ernest said -not every mozzie carries Malaria even though I wanted to kill him
at two in the morning when he said it, half-awake while I was frantically
swatting them.
We saw some really funny sights that stuck in
our minds, one of which was seeing this lady sitting side saddle on the back of
a bicycle with eyes like saucers being peddled at full speed down a very long
steep hill by her "taxi driver". He had a grin from ear to ear and
she had a look of such terror... The contrast was hilarious and they were only
half way down so what her face was like at the bottom of that hill would have
been funnier - I certainly wouldn't have wanted to be her. Then there was a guy
on a motorbike carrying two goats. The goats had their chins resting on each of
the guy’s shoulders observing
the road. It just looked so funny, we wondered if they were chatting to the
driver!
We saw one bicycle with five people on it - dad,
mom and three children and then the motorbikes with five adults... How the person
on the back actually stayed on was a mystery to us.
We saw trucks so loaded with people that there
was no standing room left inside the back of the truck; so they were hanging
onto the outside of the truck all the way down the side.
Then there was this one station wagon with the
back door open, the actual back of the car was not more than three inches off
the tar and there must have been 10 pairs of legs hanging out the back of the
open boot plus another 6 or 7 people crammed inside the back that the 10 were
sitting on top of, how the thing was going was a mystery as the front wheels
were barely touching the ground.
We met so many new interesting people, doing all
sorts of things that we had never heard of. Africa is a very harsh place and
people do the most amazing things in order to survive. One of the sad things
though is because of the latest spate of Somalian terrorism in the area of Lamu
in Kenya plus the recent outbreak of Ebola, the lifeline of Africa, which is
basically tourism, has been slashed tremendously in places like Kenya and
Tanzania, so, a lot of the people who were making a very good living and doing
well are now reduced to subsistence level.
However Zambia appears to be just booming, they
have a President who has the support of the people, a Kwacha that is worth
double the Rand and more new buildings going up than I have ever seen before.
Huge tracts of land have been taken over by farmers (from Zim and South Africa
I believe) and you travel through miles and miles of wheat, maize fields and
cattle farms. There is so much less poverty in that country but there is also
evidence of more and more Chinese involvement.
We often ask ourselves why do we do these trips
and why do we brave the bad roads, dust, dirt and possible danger?
It is a hard question to answer but I think we
just love the adventure of seeing all those new places, getting to see and
experience all the different people of Africa, the different cultures like the Masai,
Samburu, and the Turkana to see how they live their simple lives without too
much interference from Western civilization.
The one thing about African travel is you have
no idea what lies around the next corner, there is absolutely no predictability
about a trip like this. You may have to stop in the middle of nowhere and camp
and you may be lucky enough like we were, to land up in absolute luxury for a
few days of bliss in five star lodges and have hot bathes in a copper bath tubs.
You interact with people who are so different to anybody you have ever met
before and you connect and experience very briefly their existence.
Specifically on one evening we sat for hours
with the Masai chiefs swopping stories. I will never forget that little girl on
Lake Turkana who put her hand in mine and would just not let go. She gazed at
me with such admiration and I could just feel the pleading from her for me to
somehow change the life that she had been fated to live.
I will treasure the picture that Steve took of
me and all the little girls that were holding onto my hands and arms. Then there
was the time where we stopped to take pictures of a breathtaking view and were
joined by two Samburu warriors holding AK-47’s and who thought it very amusing that Rouvierre wanted to hold the
gun and be photographed with them.
There is always the first few seconds of fear...
Will they harm us?... and then comes the smile or the welcome. I don't think
during our whole three months of travel we were ever in danger from any of the
people that we met. They were fascinated with the “Strange White Travelleres”, they wanted to see what we did and how we lived but there was
never any danger. I remember so well the old man, who looked like he was going
to keel over because he was so thin, but he took the food that we gave him and
sent it back to his children and ate nothing of it himself.
The vistas and vastness of Africa will forever
remain in our minds, it is beautiful in places, harsh beyond belief in others
and this kind of wilderness cannot be found in many places on planet earth
today.
Another reason we felt this was because when you
camp in the reserves, you get into very close contact with the wild life, the
prices that they charge in the reserves are outrageous but you will never
experience the closeness of the animals any other way. The elephant that put
his trunk through the screen door and destroyed it to get at the beans that we
left inside The Queen and that come walking past and graze around the camp at
night to the monkey who jumped up and took an apple out of the bowl that
Rouvierre was carrying.
To wake up in the morning, look out of the tent
and see an elephant with a tiny baby 5 meters from the tent quietly feeding on
a nearby tree, or hear the lions roaring close by and not knowing whether they
are 10 meters or 100 meters away.
Steve, whose tent was on the ground frequently had
buffalo, hippo or elephants feeding around his tent. Andrea insisted that Steve
had a shocker with him every night, not that I think this would have done any
good but it made her feel happier.
Ernest was incredible the way he planned the
trip so that we were there at the right time of the year, plus he drove The
Queen all the way up and down for 15 ,000 kilometers, that was a feat of note.
Ken was absolutely incredible the way he handled
his body problem, he was determined to finish the trip no matter what, so he
did what was needed, had the operation in the middle and continued on to finish
up with all of us. That was something very few people could have done and he
really deserved the support and admiration we all felt for him.
Steve our wonder boy, we could not have done
without him. He kept the whole show on the road, fixing anything and everything
that went wrong with the cars and roof racks and water systems and tires and shocks.
The list goes on and on.
Kim was always there, right behind Ernest, he
kept up the pace, bought all our veggies in the market, carried things
backwards and forwards for us girls and threw water over anyone he suspected of
being a wild animal! Beware anyone trying to give him a fright in the future he
has perfected the technique. He was the best washer upper and us girls really
appreciated that.
The girls, Rouvierre, Andrea and I work
fantastically together, we had breakfast and lunch down to a fine art. As soon
as The Queen stopped, the kitchen was open and the men had their stomachs
filled. We know that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach and we had them all eating out of our
hands... Well, sometimes anyway!
The “BB” award of the trip
was won jointly and severely by Kim, Ernest and Andrea.
·
Kim for taking a fridge all the
way through the trip and never turning it on... How is that for dumb!
·
Ernest for bringing empty gas bottles
all the way through.
·
Andrea for her secondhand boots
which we’ll never let her
forget. She really took the teasing well and we need to get a picture of those
dam boots to prove that they did exist.
So once again thanks to all our followers - we
appreciated your support; and more than that thanks to all my fellow travelers,
we did it, we went, we experienced and we conquered and I am sure we will never
forget the wonderful nights that we spent around the camp fires in the wilds of
Africa, listening to the night sounds and thoroughly enjoying each other’s company - with a cup of coffee in hand of course!
Over
and out!
Thank you for everyone that followed us on our journey!
Thank you for everyone that followed us on our journey!
PS We will post more photos of the trip, so keep
on visiting the blog.
The connection
and sending photos was limited, so the best photos of our trip are still to
come.
Great summary to an epic trip Gaye. After 7 days back in JHB, I could easily be back on the beautiful beach in Malawi swimming with one eye open for crocs. Thanks for the shared BB award, cannot wait for winter to put my feet into those
ReplyDelete(well only slightly 2nd hand boots, as I was assured no Kenyan foot had ever been into them) and come and show them off to all of you. Hee Hee, love you guys. XXX